Want to see a specific category? Contact rusty.
Sharps and the like, BPCR loads ...
  • What's you BP load?
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I need one in .38 special..
  • Fill the case with REAL 3F BP till you compress the powder 1/16-3/32 inch when you seat the bullet.
    You can load BP by weight or volume.......
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • do I need wafers between the bullet and the powder?
  • No, you do need correct BP bullet lube. Do NOT use smokeless b/lube with BP.
    May have to change the guns lube also.
    LG

    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I just ordered a LEE 459-500-3R mold. A few weekends ago I attended a branding and after lunch we did some shooting. I got so pissed off with my .45-70 bullets not chambering because of fouling blocking the bullet. This new mold is very much like the bullets you gave me, Lumpy.
  • What did you do to control fouling after each shot?
    Here's some feed back on that bullet.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?10521-Lee-459-500-3R
    BTW, the bullet you speak of, that I gave you some of is called a Creedmoor.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I did the same when I shot with you. 3 blows and a swab of the breech. My 500 government bullet is just too long, with no taper for my chamber.

    TF
  • What does the bullet nose, mic out at just in front of the front drive band?
    S/B around .448-.449" dia.
    If it's over .450" dia. There's your problem.
    How did my bullets work, in your Sharps?
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I have not shot them yet, BUT they slide right on in when my old ones need a little persuasion in a dirty barrel
  • Good to hear.
    Let me know when you have the nose specs of the other bullets.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • .450 past the band till the last 1/4" of the bullet, same as lands.
  • Yeah-That's to 'fat' for sure.
    Bore ID is .4495-.450
    You want a 'nose' .447-448 then.
    You are 110% sure, it's not because of the case mouth be'n to wide-'rite'??
    Check out the Cartridge Seaters in this link.
    http://www.arizonasharpshooters.com/1794.html
    Here is where my next mold is coming from.
    http://www.sageoutfitters.com/catalog/item/8878510/10028748.htm
    You REALLY should consider one also!
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Yeah-That's to 'fat' for sure.
    Bore ID is .4495-.450
    You want a 'nose' .447-448 then.
    You are 110% sure, it's not because of the case mouth be'n to wide-'rite'??
    Check out the Cartridge Seaters in this link.
    http://www.arizonasharpshooters.com/1794.html
    Here is where my next mold is coming from.
    http://www.sageoutfitters.com/catalog/item/8878510/10028748.htm
    You REALLY should consider one also!
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • It is not an issue of the case mouth. It's the fouling in the barrel. The bullet has a fouling ring near the end of the bullet. There is no way I can afford $160 for a mold. Saw the cartridge seater.
  • What alloy are you casting?
    I only cast with 30:1(lead/tin)alloy.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Do you neck size or FL?
    That 'ring' maybe from 'short' cases.
    What powder are you using? What load?
    How much compression?
    Does sound as if the bullet nose is to large.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • All my loads will chamber in a clean barrel without any added pressure.

    TF
  • Tell me your load-I have forgot'n it.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • FL, 70 3f .30 wad enough comp to seat bullet to top drive band
  • Stop the FL-Size just enough to reduce the case's middle .002-.003" at most.
    Have you loaded the 'brass' I loaned you yet?
    IF, your loads will chamber in a clean bore. Then NOT in a fired bore. You have a fouling issue to deal with.
    What bullet lube are you using?
    You may need to swab the chamber and first inch or so of the bore.
    When do you want to meet at DM again?
    I'm good with ANY good weather day, during the week.
    Is the powder load by weight or volume?
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Very interesting exchange here guys! I'm paying very close attention.
  • Hope you didn't get 'overcharged'......... :D
    Sorry-my bad...........
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Grumpy-You shoot BPCR?

    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I shoot but never have competed. I love my Quigley clone! Not legal for NRA matches. But I love shooting it anyway.
    .45-70, home cast 500gn lubed with Felix of all things! getting good fouling control shooting Black or Subs with a breathing tube.

    I'm not any good, I just like shooting it when I can.

    One of the reasons I joined the DM club was so I could shoot past 100yards. Last year I messed up and went back to school for some creds for work and let my membership lapse.... argh! so I'm waiting until the membership year comes round and will join again. Wife wouldn't let me pay a whole year membership for only 3 or 4 months... Oh well.

    Anyway, Yeah, I shoot BPCR.

  • What's 'Felix'?
    Get joined up w/DM, and we could meet during the week.
    My favorite BPCR rifle, is my Shiloh Sharps #1 in .45-90.
    What alloy do you cast with? I have found 30:1 works very well.

    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I'll be joining back up again when the renewal period comes around, they don't allow prorating so I'll wait. My fault I should have paid closer attention to the calendar.

    Felix lube is a homemade lube I use with good results for my smokeless loads and I tried it on my BP loads and so far it's working great. Just google "world famous felix bullet lube" and you'll find lots of links. I make it up about twice a year and pan lube or pour it into my lubrisizer depending on my need. I have no idea if others use it for BP but I have no complaints so far. I use it in all my BP CAS loads in .45colt out of my Dragoons.
  • I would never use a petroleum based oil for any type of BP bullet or gun lube.
    Dump the Mineral oil.......
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Maybe we could get enough HDC members to want to shoot a BPCR shoot.
    DM has steel hang'n at 400 & 500 yds.
    We could put one at 300 yds, for the match.
    Grump-We need to meet at the range(dur'n the week)when the weather gets better.
    Wait'n for Tom Foolery to get his stuff going also.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Sounds good to me. I have alternate fridays off and the odd holiday.
    I have a small trailer that I camp in for just this sort of thing.
    As soon as I get my membership renewed I'll be spending more time camping and shooting at DM.

    Do you do any paperpatching? That's something I'd like to try some day.

    I think a BPCR shoot would be great. Never did an actual organized match it would be nice to do something with others.
  • Done some PP.
    Have 'old-arthur' in my right hand, that makes roll'n the paper on a problem.
    Stay'n with GG bullets for now.
    Our first 'real' match was the Quigley Shoot in Forsyth, Montana in 2010.
    How are you stocked on BP? These loads eat it up.
    I try to stay away from DM, Friday-Tuesday because of crowds. Can you take any other day??

    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Only if there's a holiday or vacation.
    I could take a sick day but I got these pesky morals that keep me honest even when nobody's a lookin.

    Seem we went through this same conversation shortly after you introduced me to CAS on another Forum. LOL.
  • Morals, need to go on vacation from time to time too.
    >:) >:)

    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Now Lumpy, it's not like the crowds will make you late getting to work anyhow.
  • Now Rusty-Here I was almost feeling bad. About you guns sit'n outside, hold'n the rose bushes in place =))
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Oh that reminds me, before a go a shootin' with my sharps I gotta take it outta the 'matter patch. It's been holdin' up my 'matter vines...

  • Hi Lumpy,
    I don't have any black powder loads, but right after Christmas I went out and tested some loads thru my Uberti Hi-Wall replica. It is in 45-70 and has a 32" barrel. I had purchased fifty pieces each of Montana Precision Swaging's 480 grain Schmitzzers and 530 Postells, both with SPG lube. I don't want to quote exact charges because my information is at home right now, but I used Hodgdon's H4198 for all test loads and it performed admirably. I started my loads very light to simulate the bullet being farther down range that it actually was. I did this because my twist rate is 2" slower than your sharps rifles and we were worried about stabilizing the heavier bullets. Although my rifle currently has only semi-buckhorn sights, I got encouraging accuracy and intend to purchase some Soule sights for it. Both bullet weights flew true with no stability problems. I really like the 480's! Data to follow.

    Doc
  • Go 'black' and smile- :D
    Clean-up is PDQ- ;)
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • My sharps clone has never tasted anything other than Black or substitutes.
  • After the match and long range shoot yesterday, I went home and looked up the 45-70 loads that I was talking about in my last post. I am using Star-line brass, which is a full 30 grains heavier than the Winchester stuff. It shoots as much as 60fps faster as well during side by side comparisons in my Marlin Guide Gun. With the Montana Precision Swaging 480 grain Smittzer, loaded to an OAL of 3.012, which is .050 from touching the riflings in my rig, I recorded average velocities of 1079fps with 24.0 grains of Hodgdon's H4198 and 1121 with 25.0 grains of the same. While I did start this series of tests at 21.0 grains, I won't list those velocities, as they were just to simulate bullet flight farther down range. What I did find is that the 24.0 grain load showed a significantly tighter standard deviation than its lighter brethren, and therefore should be considered the lower limit of starting loads in this combination. Data for the 535 (corrected from my last post) Postells to follow.

    Doc
  • Doc-With Starline brass.
    You really need to anneal the case necks.
    That will drop your SD & ES a good amount also.
    Plus more consistent neck tension--
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I use all Starline brass as well in my .45-70, good info guys thanks.
  • Do you guys think that this would be the right place to share load info for the rifle caliber, repeaters as well? How about pistol caliber stuff?

    Doc

  • Doc-Just fill the case with 2 or 3 'F' Goex and enjoy :D
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Doc. you can tag onto any of the discussions or start an entirely new one under the reloading category. If we keep the topics narrow on each discussion we can go back and search for the right discussion to pick up recipes someone might have shared on a particular weapon or caliber.
  • Thanks very much Rusty. You don't know how that "scares the hell out of me" but I will give it a try. Prepare for a potential meltdown of the entire internet!

    Doc
  • I can make it right. Go ahead and experiment. Remember Lumpy is our moderator.
  • rusty said:

    Remember Lumpy is our moderator.


    :O
    We're doom'd for sure, now.
    =))

    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • nice work on the new discussions Doc. Now if we can just get your email working.
  • Thanks to how you set this "forums" section up, it was super easy! I hope that we see a bunch of participation on all of these Discussions. I am currently out of the reloading business until I finish building my reloading bench. The one from the Lancaster house wouldn't fit through the door to my new Reloading Room but, once I am back up and running, I will be able to load up more 45-70s. Rusty, you and I shot the last twenty rounds that I had, Cowboy loads that is, on Sunday, but once I am back up, you are welcome to shoot my 86 for these side matches. When you do get yourself ready to purchase, the Marlin 1895 Cowboy is a good bit less than an 86, and it is a good rifle for the money. I just looked at one on Gun broker for less than eight bills.
  • Just make sure it's an older JM marked Marlin.
    The newer Rem owned Marlins have LOTS of QC issues. Those will have REM stamped on the barrel near the rec'r.
    All are welcome to try my '86 and Sharps.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I'm willing to share my Sharps clone too.
  • That's the spirit Grumpy! We will let these fellers use our stuff a bit, and they will be hooked for life! Hopefully, I can get myself back into the reloading business soon. Once I do, I will bring out my Marlin 1895CB in 38-55 for the boys to try. Imagine 260 grainers at whatever velocity you want to drive them at, all from a rile that is at least two pounds lighter than the 1886. Rusty, I really want you to try this one!!

    Doc
  • Doc said:

    That's the spirit Grumpy! We will let these fellers use our stuff a bit, and they will be hooked for life! Hopefully, I can get myself back into the reloading business soon. Once I do, I will bring out my Marlin 1895CB in 38-55 for the boys to try. Imagine 260 grainers at whatever velocity you want to drive them at, all from a rile that is at least two pounds lighter than the 1886. Rusty, I really want you to try this one!!

    Doc



    And here I thought, you LIKED Rusty- :-O
    :D

    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Yes, I do like Rusty. I have some ammo, loaded up for that rifle currently, but it is all hotter stuff than SASS rules allow. It is Cast Performance, gas checked 260 grainers that average 1700fps. A nice load, but too hot for this game.
    Speaking of loads, I looked up the data that I had on hand for my 45-70, 535 grain Postell loads that I promised I would add to this discussion, so here they are. I loaded all of my Postells to an OAL of 2.927 which is .055 from the riflings in my Hi-Wall. With the same Star-line brass I use in all of my 45-70's, I loaded 24.0 grains of H-4198 and got an average velocity of 1093fps on the chronograph. With 25.0 grains, I got an average of 1157fps.

    Doc
  • The SASS 'speed-limits' do NOT apply to side match stuff like this. ;)
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I did not know that! I figured that those velocity limits applied to all firearms used in SASS. That means that I could try these loads at the next long range side match. This is exciting news! 1600fps would probably be a bit more comfortable to shoot but, the1700 and 1800fps loadings showed the best consistency over the chronograph. 1800fps was getting a bit strong, as far as recoil is considered.

    Doc
  • Ok so I will not be here in June and July/August can be warm. When were you thinking about another go?
  • It would probably have to be in Autumn, once it cools down some. Maybe October? Any thoughts you guys?

    Doc
  • Doc said:

    I did not know that! I figured that those velocity limits applied to all firearms used in SASS. That means that I could try these loads at the next long range side match. This is exciting news! 1600fps would probably be a bit more comfortable to shoot but, the1700 and 1800fps loadings showed the best consistency over the chronograph. 1800fps was getting a bit strong, as far as recoil is considered.

    Doc



    They still have to be lead bullets and no gas-checks.
    BTW-You get to take the targets to your shop for re-welding from 1800 fps 'smacks' =))
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Doc said:

    It would probably have to be in Autumn, once it cools down some. Maybe October? Any thoughts you guys?

    Doc



    Oct. would be good. One of the prettiest months in the desert.
    LG

    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I use silver state 405 gr rnfp with a full case of pirodex, shoots dead on at 100yds don't know about 300yds.
  • Curly-DON'T change a thing in that load.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Yes on October. That may give me time to get set up with my own rig.
  • i started prepping brass today. i might have to try the 405gn bullet again. my last attempt still delivered key holes so i went heavier with good results. but i keep hearing others making it work.. ill probably make both.
  • Grumpy-What is the 'ROT'(rate of twist)of this bbl?
    Have you 'slugged' the bore to confirm the diameter?
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • do you suspect the load is too fast for the rifling?
  • The FP 405's are a poor choice for long range.
    They didn't shoot worth a dang in either of my Sharps, and these bbls have a 1/18 ROT.
    What alloy are you casting and what bullet lube do you use?
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • I don't have the twist info in my head, I'll get back to you on it.

    My alloy is Wheel Weights and a little tin from solder (about 3ft in a 20lb pot.

    Lube is Felix lube
  • WAYyyyyyyyyyyyyyy To hard of a alloy.
    All I shoot is 30:1(lead/tin).
    BTW: todays WW is Zinc based and has been for the last few years.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • That Sharps of yours might just prefer the heavier bullets Grumpy.

    Doc
  • The WWs I have are from about 10 years ago or older. I scrounged my brains out the moment I heard Ca. was thinking about outlawing lead WWs. No zinc in my stash.

    My thinking has always been aimed at avoiding leading. But I'm never opposed to trying something different. The "problem" with cast bullets is 20 caster/shooters can't agree on much. LOL.
  • Doc, so far that is what I've seen. The rifle seems to hate the lighter bullets. I started seeing better results when I went to 500gn bullets.

    I recently busted my Lyman Postell mold and will have to repair it soon. Meanwhile I'll be trying a Lee mould.

    I'll have that twist data soon. I just plain forgot.
  • Get the Lyman fixed.
    What's wrong with it.
    I get my alloy from here.
    http://www.rotometals.com/product-p/1_tin_to_30_lead_alloy.htm
    Look at a mould from here-
    http://brooksmoulds.com/
    I shoot my Postel 'as-cast'(drops at .4585 dia) and pan lube with DGL.
    http://www.midwayusa.com/product/689293/dgl-bullet-lube-12-oz-tub.
    Have you slugged the bore to confirm bore dia?
    What brand is your Sharps?
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Ok, just got back in from working on the last of my batch of case preps. Both .45-70s and my .45colts are ready for powder now.

    The rifle is a Uberti/Pedersolli clone of the rifle from the movie Quigley Down Under. It's marketed as the "Down Under". It has the long 34" barrel with a 1:18 twist to it.

    I have slugged the barrel at .458

    The Lyman mold has a busted screw stuck in the lower part of the mold. It is one of two screws that hold the handles. I've busted 11 drill bits trying to get it out and have only managed to snap off 3 bits in the screw or the mold.

    image

    I'm told the only way to get a drill bit out after busting it is to "shatter" it. I can't figure out how to get to it to do that so... I'm still thinking on it. My latest idea is to drill two new holes for the handle and go on with life. But I've been too cowardly to actually try it just yet in fear that for some odd unknown reason the placement of the handle holes is critical and I'd just end up buggering it up for nothing. LOL. I've priced a replacement and it's about 80 bucks. Too much to spend without trying to fix this one.

    I also want to try paper patching in the future.
    busted mold.JPG
    4128 x 3096 - 4M
  • Get in touch with 'Doc' ASAP.
    Doc can you help out here??
    That mould is worth fixing, as it's mark'd "Ideal". Ideal was bought by Lyman a zallion years ago.

    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Doc knows how to fix this sort of thing? That would be cool!
    I'm sure he'll drop in soon.
  • Yes-Doc is kinda handy that way. ;)
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Looking at the picture and the red arrow, is the arrow pointing to where the stuck/broken screw is located? Is that a through hole, accessible from the bottom? Does the screw come in from the bottom? Do I see threads in the handle? So does the screw pass through the hole in the mold half and thread into the tongue of the handle? Are these mold blocks hard as the hubs of hell? Is there more than one drill bit piece in the hole now? If the screw threads into the handle tongue, why is it stuck in the mold block? Is the screw heat treated? I will need a description of what happened or have the mold in my hands before I can say anything about getting the crap out of the hole. Generally speaking, if there are parts of more than one drill bit or if the piece of drill bit is wedged in because of un-lubricated chips that are jammed into the drills flutes, you will need to have it burned out by someone with a tap[ burner. I don't have access to one and you will likely exceed the cost of a new mold have the work done anyway. I would be happy to take a look at it for you to see if there is anything that I can do with it. Please let me know some details as to where the thread are and how this assembly works.

    Doc
  • Doc. does your place have an EDM that good burn the broken bit out? Like what is done for broken taps.
    I think the mounting screw passes through the bottom of the mould, to a threaded blind hole just above the cut out for the handles.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Oh, I get it, Doc is a professional at this sort of thing!!! didn't know that. Nice.

    Doc, here you go:

    1. Looking at the picture and the red arrow, is the arrow pointing to where the stuck/broken screw is located?

    Yes, it's busted off in the bottom portion.

    2. Is that a through hole, accessible from the bottom?

    No. It doesn't go all the way through and it is threaded. The busted screw has at least one drill bit busted off in it (and possibly 2 others) I was trying to drill it and use an easy out tool.

    3. Does the screw come in from the bottom?

    No. It comes down from the top through a larger hole then through the handles' hole then screws into the bottom hole.

    4. Do I see threads in the handle?

    Yes but they are not used, the thread handle hole is bigger than the screw.

    5. So does the screw pass through the hole in the mold half and thread into the tongue of the handle?

    No. the handle's hole is bigger than the screw.

    6. Are these mold blocks hard as the hubs of hell?

    Unknown to me.

    7. Is there more than one drill bit piece in the hole now?

    Yes, at least three. I actually busted every drill bit I had that was small enough give it another try (11 in total including 4 Cobalt bits). But only broke 3 in the screw, the others just went flying. I didn't know before I tried that you can't drill out a drill bit...

    8. If the screw threads into the handle tongue, why is it stuck in the mold block?

    It doesn't. Not sure why it's threaded. None of my handles use a threaded screw hole in them.

    9. Is the screw heat treated?

    Unknown by me.

    10. I will need a description of what happened or have the mold in my hands before I can say anything about getting the crap out of the hole. Generally speaking, if there are parts of more than one drill bit or if the piece of drill bit is wedged in because of un-lubricated chips that are jammed into the drills flutes, you will need to have it burned out by someone with a tap[ burner. I don't have access to one and you will likely exceed the cost of a new mold have the work done anyway. I would be happy to take a look at it for you to see if there is anything that I can do with it. Please let me know some details as to where the thread are and how this assembly works.

    What happened is nothing special, I was casting bullets and the handle let go because the screw broke. These screws aren't overly tight to hold onto the handles.

    I'll bring it with me the next time I'm at a match and you can give it the 'ol pro look see.

    Thanks.
  • OK-Forgot It's not a Lyman mold where the goes in from the bottom. :\">
    Grumpy-Why don't you mail the mould to Doc? Then you have it up and run'n sooner because we don't shoot in May.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Let's see what Doc has to say and I'll go from there. I'm afraid I screwed it up to where it's going to be expen$ive to fix.
  • Grumpy-PM sent
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Got it. Thanks.
  • NP-
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Fascinating. When does season two start?
  • Most likely in the Fall.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • dang. another cliff hanger season finale!
  • I'm probably going to bring my rifle next month anyway just in case.
  • Hi guys,

    I don't have access to an EDM. To be honest, it doesn't sound good. I would like to have a look at it and if you want to send it to me before the June Match, send me an e-mail and we will hook up. With more than one drill bit in there, chances are slim. But I would like to see it to be sure. Sometime, under the microscope, I can work out the small pieces of drill bit until all that's left is screw. that would allow me to drill it out for you. If we can't get it, there is Jerry's Broken Drill and Tap Removal Service. His number there is 714-836-6824.

    My Best
    Doc
  • Thanks Doc.
    Did you get my detailed email?
  • Yes I did Grumpy. That's why I said it doesn't sound good. I'd be happy to have a look at it so we can know for sure. There's nothing like a little probing under the microscope to put a definitive answer to the big question!

    Doc
  • Hope you can get lucky here Doc.
    Wonder if you could bore in from the bottom of the mould and cut out the bolt etc that way??
    Then thread for a long set screw(#12)that enters from the bottom of the mould.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • We will see what we see Doc, thanks for being willing to take a look at it.
  • Doc will do anything for us.
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Doc can I borrow your Mustang for a month?
  • I just finished making my own shooting sticks.
    After seeing how much they were going for on the example sites Lumpy shared I knew I had to make mine. Cost about $10 or so in material and hardware.
  • Wish I had skillz-
    LG
    Hav'n you along, is like lose'n 2 good men
  • Me too.
    I made mine out of some inexpensive redwood that "seems" to be stout enough to take the punishment. But now I'm wondering because of what a co-worker is telling me. It seems the reason the expensive sticks are expensive is possibly because they are using a premium hard wood such as oak and maple. I may have made a mistake by choosing a softer wood. He claims redwood might "shear" instead of flex... We'll see...

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